Thursday, 23 April 2015

Pain Barriers...

Jamie Owen on sea cliffs (N Wales, UK)
It's been an amazing few weeks with Eiger training and other stuff. Establishing some things with John And Jay that I needed to know about them operating under duress before we got to the Eiger.

I had to push John physically during a long run to a point that I new he was in real pain, so I would know what this sounded like. There is no point going on the Eiger and being confused by noises of fatigue compared to noises of real pain and injury. Fatigue is managed differently from injury and now I know what John sounds like in real pain. A hard thing to put someone through but might just save lives up there.

The same for Jay, but not physical. I had him lead me up to a preplaced belay then try to arrange his belay device correctly to bring me up safely. After much verbal horn locking we achieved what I wanted: Getting him to break his rules and do simply as I ask whilst under stress of confusiion against a backdrop of perceived danger. The danger wasn't for him, he was worried that he was not belaying me safely, (he wasn't, but I knew that), he was worried he would hurt me!

So we did that today at the crag (horrible to press him like that, but neccessary for our safety on the Eiger) then enjoyed the rest of the day soloing above the water and swinging wildly above the sea on a flying arete that overhung so much it hurt your neck looking up! Amazing weather, amazing places with amazing people...

Eiger gets closer, I want this...
Oh yeh, met the most amazing woman... I want her too.

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