Tuesday 17 March 2015

Training in North Wales on Tryfan

My mate, Andy Scott and I decided on a last minute scramble up the ridge of Tryfan to show me the route for my planned Eiger training with John, Alex & Colin later in the year. Great day with a mix of dry and snow/mixed scrambling. Good practice for the Eiger for me at this early stage.

Andy Scott soloing on dry rock


I am currently working on the basis that as a paraclimbing team, we will take potentially three times longer and whilst sight guiding and trying to manage down potential MS induced fatigue, which is fine. But what came out of my day was that John and I will need to change our sight calling technique for the Eiger. A new system based on the fact that more focus will be on the feet and that we may need to drop the usual 'step' call to the actual size of the step... example ' right 30cm'. Its going to be a lot of calling all day for 3 days. I think I will take throat sweets to avoid losing my voice. 

It was great to be scrambling on an exposed ridge in mixed conditions, a perfect example of what can happen on the Eiger if the weather turns. Moving freely and quickly on this ground will obviously be a lot less mentally strenuous than moving slowly, short roping, sight calling, watching everyone is in a good place in their head with only that day's objective on their mind and not letting the scale of the mountain undermine their confidence. 

Andy Scott soloing on not so dry rock

So, the first steps... Felt like a goat dancing from hold to hold, dry, wet or covered in snow, like I hoped I would. Cant wait to get the guys down here and get stuck into things more...

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